Tokaji wine

Tokaji is a prestigious white wine from the historic Tokaj wine region in Northeast Hungary. Revered for centuries, Tokaji wines range from crisp and mineral-driven dry and off-dry styles to lusciously sweet dessert wines.

The region is best known for its sweet dessert wine – Tokaji Aszú. This wine owes its sweetness to grapes affected by botrytis cinerea, or ‘noble rot’ – a fungus that causes the grapes to shrivel, concentrating their sugars. Its unique, opulent, sweet character and complexity earned the wine an esteemed status among European high society and royalty (including the Russian Czars) over the centuries.

The region is primarily known for its sweet wines, but in recent years, dry and off-dry wines, particularly those made from the Furmint grape, have gained increased recognition.

The Tokaj wine region is located in the northeastern part of Hungary, close to the border of Slovakia (a tiny part is also in southeast Slovakia). It’s one of the world’s oldest classified wine regions and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002 due to its historic cultural landscape and long winemaking tradition.

The Tokaj region is nestled in the Zemplén Mountains, providing a unique microclimate ideal for growing grapes.

The climate here is generally continental, with cold winters and hot summers. However, the Tisza and Bodrog rivers contribute to creating early morning autumn mists, followed by warm, dry afternoons – perfect conditions for developing Botrytis cinerea, or ‘noble rot’ fungus, on the grapes, which is used when making sweet wines.

The vineyards in Tokaj enjoy higher elevations and volcanic soil. Together, they offer excellent drainage and add a distinct, rich minerality to the grapes

The Tokaj wine region has a winemaking heritage that stretches back to the 12th century. However, in the mid-16th century, Tokaj began to find global fame, particularly for its sweet white wine – Tokaji Aszú.

In the 17th century, the area gained further recognition when the prince of Transylvania gifted Louis XIV of France several bottles of Tokaji wine. The French king was so impressed that he deemed it Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum – The Wine of Kings and The King of Wines.

The Tokaj region was officially classified in 1730 when a royal decree established it as a closed wine production area, making it one of the world’s first officially recognised wine regions.

Throughout the centuries, royalty has favoured the wines of Tokaj. Despite challenges over the years, including phylloxera infestation in the late 19th century and the nationalisation of wineries during the Communist era in the 20th century, the winemaking tradition in the Tokaj region persevered and has been revived recently.

Today, Tokaj continues to produce its prized sweet wines and is gaining notoriety for its excellent dry white wines. The region became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002, underscoring its cultural and historical importance in the world of wine.

Only a few grape varieties are permitted under the appellation rules to be used in Tokaj wines:

• Furmint –This is the most widely planted grape in the region, making up approximately 60% of the region’s vineyards. It is used to make both dry whites as well as sweet wines. It’s susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (noble rot), making it ideal for the region’s famous sweet Aszú wines. Furmint typically has a high acidity and complex flavours ranging from fresh green fruits in dry styles to apricot and honey in sweet wines.
• Hárslevelű –This grape is Tokaj’s second most common grape variety, making up about 30% of plantings. Hárslevelű is often blended with Furmint and contributes intense floral and spice aromas to the wines.
• Muskotály (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) – This variety is used sparingly in dry and sweet Tokaji wines. It lends aromatic qualities and complexity to the wines.
• Zéta –This grape ripens early and is highly susceptible to botrytis. It’s used in smaller amounts in Tokaji Aszú wines.
• Kövérszőlő and Kabar – These are less common local varieties, with small proportions used in blends to add complexity.

While these grapes each have unique characteristics, they all share a high acidity that can balance out the intense sweetness in Tokaj’s famous dessert wines. They also typically have a high natural sugar content – a key factor in the region’s ability to produce such distinctive sweet wines.

The most famous wine from Tokaj is Tokaji Aszú, a lusciously sweet wine known for its rich, complex flavours and remarkable ageing potential. It is made from a blend of Furmint and Hárslevelű grapes. These grape varieties are susceptible to noble rot, which dries out the grapes and concentrates the sugars and flavours in the wine.

Tokaji Aszú offers an enchanting flavour mix of ripe apricots, orange zest, honey, and spices like saffron and ginger. Some Tokaji Aszú may develop intriguing, savoury secondary notes of tea, tobacco, or truffle as they age.

The texture of Tokaji Aszú is one of its most distinctive features. Despite its high sugar content, it still has a vibrant acidity, creating a perfectly balanced drink that isn’t cloyingly sweet.

The level of sweetness in Tokaji Aszú is traditionally measured in ‘puttonyos,’ a term that originally referred to the number of hods of Aszú grapes added to a barrel of wine. This system ranks the wine on a scale from three to six, with six being the sweetest.

Recently, a new category known as Tokaji Eszencia has gained recognition. This wine is made from the free-run juice of Aszú grapes and is one of the sweetest wines in the world.

Despite its fame for sweet wines, the Tokaj region also produces excellent dry and off-dry white wines, typically from the Furmint and Hárslevelű grape varieties.

Given their sweetness and complexity, sweet Tokaji wines are often enjoyed on their own or as a dessert wine.

However, they also pair very well with a variety of foods. Their high acidity and sweetness make them an excellent match for rich, creamy dishes like foie gras and blue cheese. They can also stand up to spicy and aromatic dishes, making them an excellent accompaniment for Asian cuisine, particularly dishes with a touch of sweetness or dishes with a spicy heat.

Desserts are a natural pairing for Tokaji wines, especially those featuring fruits, nuts or chocolate. The tradition in Hungary is to pair Tokaji Aszú with a classic dessert of the region: sponge cake known as ‘somlói galuska’, which features walnuts and raisins and is served with a rum sauce.

A glass of dry Tokaji Furmint pairs well with rich seafood dishes featuring grilled prawns or scallops, chicken or turkey in creamy sauces and creamy cheeses like Brie.

Tokaji Aszú is best served in a smaller dessert wine glass that can concentrate its complex aromas, while other Tokaji wines suit a standard white wine glass.

Sweet Tokaji wines such as Tokaji Aszú and late harvest styles are served slightly cooler than room temperature – between 12-14ºC – to highlight their rich texture and fruity notes.

Dry Tokaji wines, including Tokaji Furmint, can be served even cooler to preserve their more delicate aromas and flavours – aim for between 8-12ºC.