Château Labégorce 2017

Writing in the Wine Advocate, Lisa Perrotti-Brown described Bordeaux's 2017 vintage as “all about finesse, perfume and aromatic intensity.” That suits this fine Margaux down to the ground. Always characterised by a fragrant herbal tint to its dark fruit and spice, this appellation performed very nicely in the vintage, and offers some very smart buys indeed, including Château Labégorce. With vines on average 30 years old, and several over 100, its vines yield grapes of tremendous concentration, enhanced by maturation for 15 months in 50% new oak. Unlike many of its neighbours it wasn’t “Classed” in 1855, meaning that prices never outstripped quality. With muscular, warm plum, cassis and black olive fruit and firm tannins, this is a keeper.